The Barn Getting Started Adding The Frames Bilge Boards Turning Billy Cabin Cockpit Cabin Top Finishing The Launch 

Turning Billy

Turning Puffing Billy

by Ken Lewis

Fortunately, my workshop is on a farm and with the aid of a forklift, some bales of hay (highly recommended but not conveniently at hand for most boat builders) and a couple of willing hands, the boat was turned without any dramas. The next couple of months were devoted to filling screw holes, planing the chines, filling voids, taping the joints, filleting, sanding, and adding the sides, leading and trailing edges to the bilge board cases. I also generally tidied up the hull ready for painting. In other words all the boring bits!!!!! Tip. I found cabinet scrapers invaluable for smoothing out epoxy filled areas. You may need a quick blast with a power sander to get rid of the large bumps then scrape the surface until it is level and smooth. It produces thin slithers and cuts down on the excessive dust from power sanders. You can buy them from www.rutlands.co.uk Also, I had two 6mm bilge board plates made in steel by a local blacksmith. The plates were covered with three coats of epoxy, primer and paint. I considered Stainless Steel but the cost was too expensive. I also had trouble finding 18mm Hexagon bolts but I eventually found two at Anglia Stainless on 01359 251414. As the boats upside down I wanted to finish painting the bottom and this became a problem. I have no idea as to whether my boat will be trailed or be permanently moored, so I was hoping there was an anti- fouling paint that I could have painted on, even though I would not be launching the boat for about 9 months. Anti-fouling paint is designed to be immersed in water soon after painting. Apparently there isn’t such a product, at least not one I found. I eventually decided that I was more likely to trail the boat, until I found a permanent mooring. So I will have to solve the anti- fouling problem, after I have used the boat. The hull was epoxied with Eposeal 300, before adding four coats of International Primer, two coats of International Pre-coat and two dark red topcoats. The grey undercoat will eventually be finished Navy Blue and will be painted at the end of the build. I installed the bilge plate and edged the bilge board casings with brass running strips to help protect the plywood from beach damage. 31st December 2006

Building a Lynx 16

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