The Barn Getting Started Adding The Frames Bilge Boards Turning Billy Cabin Cockpit Cabin Top Finishing The Launch

Getting Started

by Ken Lewis

The plans were easy to follow so lofting the drawings onto the ply was a simple matter of taking care, checking the plans twice, checking the measurements twice and checking both again. I cut out the bottom, bilge, and topside panels and the six frames from the 9mm ply. From the 12 mm, I lofted and cut the transom and two bilge board cases. After cutting the panels and scarf and butt-joining where required, I laid the two bottom panels on my frame and loosely tied them together with cable ties. TIP: Do not tighten the ties too tightly; too early, just leave them loose. Despite knowing this, I could not stop myself from pulling them tight. Subsequently, I spent a lot of time replacing them. The only part of the build that concerned me is pulling together the bow section on the bottom panel. The instructions advised using hot water and towels. That's OK if the boat is upside down, I am building mine the right way up. I decided to use a wallpaper stripper and a plastic bag, it worked a treat. TIP: I made two wedges with pins nailed through to grip the ply, it helped to stop the clamp from sliding off the bow. I started at the bow and not from the stern as recommended in the instructions. TIP: You will notice in the photographs dowels along the joints. I found this tip on the Internet, it stops the panels riding on top of each other and it works! Pic 8 It soon became apparent that, after manhandling the gunwale panels onto the bottom panels, which became quite difficult to align and tie, the topside panels might be impossible without an aid. It was at this point I made the internal temporary support frames. I did not want to fix the cabin frames into place as suggested in the instructions as the weight would be too much when the boat is turned. I used the already cut frames A to E as the templates for the temporary frames and screwed them into place in the relevant positions in the hull. Pic 9 I used West Systems epoxy and 405 filler with a touch of 406. The Selway-Fisher's instructions suggested I start at the bow by imbedding the stem in epoxy. Even with the frame work holding the hull together, I did not feel it would take my 12.5 stone bulk crawling up to the bow. I therefore tacked the seams to give me extra support before attacking the stem Pic 8. I replaced the temporary support frames with wooden beams to keep the hull apart. This gave me a clear hull in which to fillet the seams and lay the hog. Now the boat is stronger, the stem (3) is epoxied in place and by adding battens to the transom (2) for extra support; that was also fixed into position. Before starting this build, I read a lot on the subject of epoxying. I definitely thought I was meant to fillet the seams first, let the epoxy cure, clean it up (which I assumed meant sanding with 80 grit paper) and then apply the glass tape. I was halfway though filleting the hull, when I was advised to add the tape at the same time as applying the epoxy to the fillets. It’s obvious when you think about it; the fillets must be stronger having the glass tape imbedded in the mix. It was an art but I got quite proficient. eventually. The two 15x100 mm lengths of Douglas Fir, which made up the hog (5) were glued and screwed into place. After adding the glass tape to the front half of the boat, the hull is now completely finished. 26th June 2006

Pic 9

Pic 8

The numbers in (00) represent the numbers on the plans

Building a Lynx 16

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