The Barn Getting Started Adding The Frames Bilge Boards Turning Billy Cabin Cockpit Cabin Top Finishing The Launch 

Cabin Top

The Cabin Top and the Cockpit Sides

by Ken Lewis

THE CABIN TOPNo (40 & 41) requires two x 4mm strips of ply to add strength to the tabernacle which is mounted in the middle of Frame (B). On (42 & 43), I cut out a 100mm x 8mm rebate on the stern side of Frame “B” and on the bow side I cut the same but only on (42). The two strips of 4mm ply formed the correct curve by clamping them to frame “B” while the glue set. (Pic 47) When the glue had dried I drop them into position, fixing them to the cabin top beams (42 & 43) and between frames "B & D"(Pic 48). Fixing the cabin top with two sheets of 4mm ply was a matter of glueing and screwing into position.I make a cardboard template of the cabin front, and then transferred it to a 4mm sheet of ply. It was cut over size and planed and fitted. It was a fiddly and time-consuming task. It was glued as per Selway Fishers instruction. I cut a window in the front, which is not on the plan. COCKPIT SIDESWhen my wife saw the 2 to 3 inches distance between the seat and the top of the gunwale she said, “I have got nothing to lean against, can’t you do something about it” so I did. I extended the cabin sides and gave it a sweep down to the stern stopping short by about 16 inches. I had to scarf an extra piece of ply to the 8-foot length. I think it looks good (Pic 49,50,51&52). The inside also needs support for the back rests. (Pic 51). All that is left to do after the second skin is fixed to the back support is to paint and varnish the deck, floor, cabin sides and the front deck.I followed Selway Fishers plans for the cabin boards, sliding cabin hatch, rudder and tiller. All proved trouble free as long as you take your time, read the instructions and follow the drawings.

Pic 47

Pic 48

Pic 49

Pic 50

Pic 52

Pic 51

The numbers in (00) represent the numbers on the plans

Building a Lynx 16

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